travel


PetraMy second time to Petra was more interesting than the first. Me and Frederik covered the same amount of sights in half the time compared to my last visit, and we took some amazing climbs up the various hills around the hidden city. For example, we headed up the stairs to the High Place of Sacrifice. From this mountaintop and destroyed temple, we had a beautiful view of the whole city. Amazingly, as we were up there, a windy front rolled in and caused a sand storm in the valley below. Very weird sight. Poor tourists. We also climbed to the top of the theater, which was awesome. I didn’t do it last time because it was closed by fences, but this time I just followed the Berserker Viking on his quest for ever higher heights. And man, was it great. From up high, it gives you another great view of the city and you can imagine the roar of 8,000 Nabataeans.

This last Thursday, I also visited the Kerak and the Dead Sea for the first time. The first part of the day was spent at Kerak castle, a Crusader caste from the 1200s. It’s mostly rubble on a hill, but the walls still stand. The most amazing parts are hidden deep underground and constituted the stables and living quarters of the Crusaders; they are magnificant multi-level halls, going down as far as four different levels. Later on the day, as Frederik and I drove down from the mountains to the lake’s shoreline, we could see a weather front roll in from over the hills in Israel. Just our luck. We were in time for the sunset, but alas, the clouds rolled in and that was it. We went to the Dead Sea Marriot Hotel, mistakenly bought 2 dinner vouchers thinking they were entrance tickets for the spa (which is the only way to go into the Dead Sea and enjoy a needed shower afterwards), but got in anyway thanks to a nice security guard. The feeling of not being able to sink is very strange. I got the hang of floating after one panicky help-I’m-going-to-sink-like-a-rock arm splash, getting the salty water into my eye –- not a recommended experience. The trick is to just stretch to keep your balance. After having been in the water for a while, I dutifully rubbed the last bit of mud from one of the jars at the beach on my body. Then I just sat back and enjoyed the view over the lowest part (400 meters below sea level) of planet Earth.

By the lack of an Internet connection at home and by the abundant times of having tagged along with a few fresh acquaintances, I haven’t been able to update a lot. So now, drumroll please, I’ll give you summary of these last couple of days, over the next few days! ;) Is this the start of a vicious circle? Naaah. I’ll work overtime at the office just to please my readers. ;)

So, after almost having lost by luggage, I took a taxi (“Where you from?” “Helanda.” “Aaah, good good, welcome to Jordan!”) at the airport and headed to the Marriot Hotel where I’d meet Maike, my contact at the Royal Netherlands Embassy in Amman. I had to pass through the tight security at the entrance and then plunged into the most comfortable seat next to some huge American guys in suit. They were talking about American football and all wore those big championship rings; the first people I meet in Jordan are all-American football stars. Isn’t that ironic? I had trouble staying awake, not only because they were talking about American football, but because it had been a door-to-door journey of 20 hours.

Twen-ty-ow-arrrrs. Aye. I left home in Holland around 10 am on Friday, hopped on the plane at 2:45 to London and spent my afternoon there cruising Heathrow and lounging at Starbucks. I met up with Kate later and had a great time, laughed a lot. Reallyreally nice to see her! :) After that, I boarded my next plane to Amman via Beirut an hour later than planned. The trip to Amman was long and grueling. My seat was just close enough to the one in front of me that I could take on any sleeping position. Eventually, I sort of dozed off with my head against that pesky seat in front. I sat next to an old Lebanese woman clad in black, didn’t wear any shoes and who didn’t speak a word of English, but was otherwise very nice and quite eloquent with her hands. We landed at Rafiq Hariri International Airport in Beirut at around 4 am. Just a dozen people remained in the plane that took off to Amman at 5 am, and I found myself next to a very interesting American traveling to Baghdad.

Dressed in sand-coloured clothing, wearing a hat with ‘O.I.S. Operation Iraqi Freedom’ and complaining about the lack of coffee, he drew my attention. I moved over to the seat next to him. He was a 50ish-year-old from Florida and was one of those foreign contractors in Iraq. He specialized in sewer construction, and had seen combat in Vietnam. Although we discussed politics, art, literature and my extremely flowery and superior jacket, he kept on swinging the conversation back to one central theme: that he really didn’t want to go back to that hell hole, but that he had to serve out his contract. I wished him all the best when we parted ways at the Queen Alia Airport luggage belt in Amman, and he complimented me on my jacket again.

So, swooooosh, back to the Marriot hotel and those American football players. I met Maike and headed down to my apartment near 7th Circle. In Amman, every major roundabout has been numbered from 1 through 8. My little studio is located near a Safeway and a Cozmo, two nice supermarkets. I’m about 10 minutes by taxi (1 dinar, i.e. 1 euro!) away from my office. After having been shown to my apartment, we decided to head down to Abdoun Circle (Abdoun – a well-off trendy neighbourhood) for breakfast. Oh yes, Lebnani Snack, gotta love it! Mmmm. I met Maaike (yes, a different person with an extra a), another embassy intern, and then decided it would be best to head to bed.

In the evening, me, Ma(a)ike, and a new acquaintance Mohamed, who organizes tours for the Dutch embassy, went to one of the best restaurants in town, Fakhr el Din. Another embassy employee, Sami, joined later on. We had a brilliant Arabic meal (even typing this makes me drool) with everything in it, ranging from hummus, to tahbouli (a side dish with a lot of parsil and tomato) to sheep brains.

Yes, sheep brains. They tasted marvelous.